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WEBSITE SPECIAL!

Save $100 by selecting Plain steel TIG welded tubular control arms rather than the standard polished stainless steel arms!

The entire concept of our frame stub is to supply a method whereby a modern ball joint independent suspension can be installed to replace the old IFS. Most of the kingpin type original IFS systems have coil spring mounts that are integral in the frame rails. That bulge makes the rails too wide to accept a simple crossmember as in earlier cars like ’40 Fords and Chevys. We have developed a way to measure, design and fabricate a unitized frame rail and crossmember assembly that replaces the original frame ahead of the firewall, doing away with the offending bulges in the bargain. The key to a successful swap is that we are able to accurately locate the proper mounts and holes for the sheetmetal and radiator core support as well as the bumper. Most cars are quite consistent as to those dimensions, but we may ask you for measurements on certain models that have proven to be less consistent. We sometimes have several different drawings for the same make and model, and can use those dimensions to help assure we are using the correct design to match your car. The Packards, Olds, and Pontiacs are generally the most trouble with all the different series cars they produced. Chevy, Ford, and Buick designs seem to be very consistent.

1957 Buick stub installed in our shop — now ready for the polished SS arms and Shockwaves!

We take all measurements relative to the most forward body bolts that would have to be removed to pull the body off the frame. We need true centerline dimensions, not diagonals. By that, we mean that you must use a plumb bob to mark the floor with the front mount bolts and axle centerlines, and then draw transverse base lines across those marks. Now you can measure straight up the centerline of the car, finding the axle centerline and the radiator core support positions. Finally, note the height of the core support and bumper mounts so that those points are reproduced when the new frame stub is attached. With the core support position properly reproduced, the nose sheetmetal will fit as before. We have reprinted a very complete installation magazine article which is very thorough, and is available upon request. We really like to be able to speak with you one on one so any necessary questions can be asked and answered.

The key to the installation is to level the car with secure jackstands and enough weight so that it absolutely, positively cannot move! If it does move, all you dimension are useless and you will have trouble locating the new frame stub. Our directions will give you a measurement for the cutoff point, and it’s always a good idea to eyeball how that looks before the actual cut is made. Some of the stubs slide inside the original frame while most are cut at a point where the new rail closely matches the dimensions of the old frame. We supply internal gussets which are tacked inside the old frame to sleeve the joint and help position the new unit while dimensions are checked. The joints are designed to have a ¼" gap between the new and old frames. This provides a backed up multiple weld pass joint that will be stronger than the rest of the frame while having a smooth transition

This concept has worked out so well that we also can build the front parts of the complete chassis we build for ’37-48 Chevy cars, ’37-59 Chevy trucks, ’35-40 Ford, and ’35-56 Ford trucks. All too often, these cars have been the victim of botched GM factory subframe installs and track width problems. Our frame stubs will save the rest of the chassis and are made long enough that they’ll do the job no matter where the frame cuts were made.

Once you have determined that we have the frame stub for your car, refer to the previous page to see the different Stage suspensions we can install on that stub. The Stage prices shown on this page include the stub itself and all the bolt on Stage components. We can go on to provide engine mounts, power assist steering, sway bars, and disc brake options.

We have the dimensions for ALL the applications listed on the catalog page you’ll see further down on this site. For those, we just want to verify the dimension from the most forward body bolt center to the front wheel axle centerline, and then on to the radiator core support holes. Those dimensions must be a true fore and aft dimension, not diagonal in any way. The best way to get those dimensions is to use a plumb bob to transfer the 3 positions on each side of the car to the floor, draw lines across those marks, and then measure right up the center of the car.